| Varnishing: Antiquing Tips |
Antiquing an instrument is a process used to give a new instrument the look and feel of age. Of course Antonio Stradivari and his colleagues made instruments to look new, but our presumption is that old is better and more attractive, so we often will accommodate musicians preferences (if there is one) to this look.
Mr. Scott uses a variety of techniques to gradually build up a layer of "dirt" and to simulate the wear of an older but well-cared-for instrument, in many cases just simulating 50 to 100 years of wear, not 250 to 300 years like you would see on some great Cremonese instruments. This appearance often reduces the musicians fear of putting that first scratch or dent on the instrument. Many of these have already been applied intentionally by us. Our goal is to do it tastefully.
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Watercolor Technique:
You will need a selection of differently shaped rocks, some earth-tone watercolors, a brush, and a mixing palette.
1. Begin by denting, scratching, rolling and rubbing the rocks over the varnish. Be strategic and extremely prudent in your placement of wear and scratches . At this point it is very helpful to have some photos of an instrument you like at hand to imitate the wear patterns. If you feel there is too much varnish in some areas (i.e. upper bout near neck), you may use micro mesh to remove some of the color. If very carefully done, a light solution of weak varnish remover will work well here. Application of this must be quick and left on for only a few seconds, allowing only the top layer of varnish to soften. Immediately clean the varnish remover with water and paper towel and carefully dry. The varnish remover works best if varnish is well cured, we would not advise this for something that was varnished just a few days prior. It is best to remove varnish in these areas as one varnished, lifting extra layers with palm of hand or dryer spong material talked about elsewhere in our demonstrations.
2. Mix watercolors to a pigment that you like. We use a combination of raw and burnt umber and sepia, occassionally adding lamp black.
3. Apply watercolor to an area with a brush, quickly and evenly spreading it around with fingers or palm until it has dried.
5. Use your hand to rub the color evenly into the scratches and wear you made with the rocks. The friction from your hand must be just right. Allowing some of the water colors to remain on your fingers or palm will help create the "right friction" to polish off the water colors on the smooth and higher parts of the instrument's surfaces while working color into the dents, scratches and grain lines.
4. The end result should be an even coat of "dirt" with no streaking. More "dirt" should build up in dents and in any texture left on the maple or reed lines of the spruce. If you see streaks, simply dampen your fingers or palm with a wet paper towel and rubbing over the watercolor again (no need to apply more color). If you are completely unhappy with the result, simply wipe the instrument clean with a damp paper towel and start over.
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